Hard truth: there’s no such thing. And be weary of any brand that tries to tell you otherwise. Truth be told, lessening your impact requires a hard look at your own habits, while also honing how you choose brands or stores to buy from. I've heard from many that it’s hard to know what to believe and how to select clothes more wisely. Read on for steps you can take to lessen your impact.;
The term “sustainability” was never intended to refer to a brand, let alone a singular item of clothing. It was meant to capture an overall effort or growing awareness in the 80s about the impact that we are having as a society. The term “sustainability” originates from “sustainable development,” which was defined in 1987 by the UN Commission on Environment and Development as development that "meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs". At its core it’s about balancing economic, environmental, and social well-being – thinking not just of ourselves, but of our society as a whole.;
While a lot about creating a sustainable society lies in the control of our governments and the policy decisions they make, there is always power in numbers. Collective action is the sum of individual action. There’s so much opportunity for each and everyone of us to make change. Small changes in our own lives can lead to big impact on society. As fashion designer Vivienne Westwood so succinctly put it: Buy less, choose better, make it last.
BUY LESS
Easily said, hard to do! We are all guilty of spontaneous shopping.; Especially with so many fashion brands coming out with rounds upon rounds of new collections each year. Fashion, especially fast fashion, is driven by a constant demand for styles that reflect up to the minute popular culture and are meant to make it nearly impossible to resist. Coupled with the exceedingly low price of so many clothes today, we are all being trained to think of clothes as transitory and disposable when in fact the chemicals and materials used to make clothes today make them more permanent and less degradable than ever before. All of this is geared toward getting shoppers to buy things they don’t need. So we must take a beat, question, and think about what we actually need. Every single thing we buy new uses resources to make, whether it’s a box of cherry tomatoes, or a new couch. There are no loopholes, even with “feel good marketing” telling you otherwise. It’s especially hard living in the U.S. where buying less feels at odds with our culture:; the U.S. leads the world in the amount of clothes purchased per person,[1] and generates over 17 million tons of textile waste each year – about ⅕ of the textile waste generated across the world.[2];
How to: think about how many different pants or shirts are really necessary (this applies to kids clothes, too!). Are there clothes that sit in your drawer all the time while others are in constant rotation? Do the clothes you bought on impulse stand the test of time? Not buying that thing is the best option. Buying second hand is also a good option, or when you really need something, choose better.;
CHOOSE BETTER
We know this is tricky. Families have different budgets and kids have different (strong!) opinions about what they want to wear, but the most sustainable approach is an intentional one. Quick purchasing of low-cost poorly-made clothes won’t save you time or money in the long run because the clothes won’t last and you’ll soon find yourself back in the store or on the website. Here’s what to consider:
Quality
Choose things that are well-made, even if they cost a little more. Think about the style and whether it’s something that actually suits you. Do you see yourself wearing it next year, or the next? Even when buying for kids, who are constantly growing, better quality will mean the garment will fit better and resist wear and tear longer. This means it can also be passed down to siblings, friends, or enter the second-hand marketplace for extended use. Check to make sure the seams are strong. Was an extra button included on a tag?
Materials
Always remember to check the label. What is the product made of? Natural fabrics tend to have lower environmental impact than synthetic ones because they are renewable and biodegradable. Some materials (like wool!) have the added benefit that they don’t need to wash them as often, meaning you can buy fewer clothes on the whole. Choose organic cotton over conventional, to minimize the environmental impact of fertilizers. Animal fibers (like wool or alpaca) or plant-based fibers like linen and hemp are all low-impact fibers. But again, be mindful that “low-impact” does not mean zero impact, so continue to check back on whether you need it to begin with.;
Production
Just as important as what you can see, is how the product was made.;What were the labor conditions under which the product was made?;Does the manufacturer disclose whether it offers fair wages and safe working conditions? (hint: if they don’t mention it, the answer is 100% not what you are hoping for). The International Labor Organization estimates that the garment industry employs about 90 million factory workers, of which less than 2% earn a living wage.[3] Further, garment workers often endure unsafe working conditions, wage theft, excessive working hours, as well as gender-based harassment.[4]
Another equally important question: Where was the product made? The vast majority of textiles are produced in low-income regions of the world, which often lack occupational health and safety regulations, minimum wage requirements, and child labor restrictions. Furthermore, these countries also often lack environmental regulation, hence appealing to foreign manufacturers while bearing the brunt of the polluting side effects of the textile industry.
Finally, think about the chemicals that might be in the product. If it's a waterproof garment, does it contain PFAS? What dyes were used? The most commonly used dyes are AZO dyes, which have been linked to various cancers and allergic reactions – causing potential harm both to the wearer and also to those making the garments. Look for either natural dyes or those that explicitly state they are AZO-free. Note that Europe has banned AZO dyes, so any products made in Europe will not contain them.
Certifications offer a shortcut to assessing brands on some of these issues. For example, GOTS and OEKO-TEX certifications both prohibit the use of AZO dyes (as well as the forever chemical PFAS). There are also an increasing number of; Fair Trade certifications that will verify fair wages and safe working conditions of workers. (Stay tuned for a more detailed roundup of third party certifications and how best to leverage them!);
End of life
Think about your end game at the time of purchase.;Is this something someone else will want to use when I’m done with it? Is it special enough that I will want to store it for my grandchildren to use one day? Does the company I’m buying from have a takeback program? Another hard truth: donating your used clothes to thrift stores (such as Goodwill) is a way to offset your impact: only 20% of textile donations are put back into circulation and resold, while the remainder are sent to waste sorters and graders, who in turn often ship these discarded clothes to low-income regions around the world. Generally, the majority of clothes end up in landfills. The U.S. alone sent 22.6 billion pounds of clothing to landfills in 2018 (the last available year of data from the U.S. EPA).[5];
MAKE IT LAST
Aka, make do and mend.;Yes, that means look after your clothes, check in on them regularly to see if they need some TLC. ;
I’ve found that when I’ve taken the time to get to know the brand and made an intentional purchase, I’m more inclined to take care of it. I try my best to adhere to the rule that whatever I buy needs to be worthy of future mending and repair. I find that that helps to crystalize whether or not I should buy something. On a personal note, I am not a particularly Zen person, so I have been consistently surprised by how I have found the process of sewing, patching, darning (etc) to be immensely calming and emotionally regulating. Eyes may be rolling but give it a go–today’s headlines will grow less noisy, I promise!
If you’re not prone to DIY and resist mending and repairing yourself, then support your local tailor and cobbler!;
SUPPORT SMALL BUSINESSES
In recent years, prior to founding Bigelow Lane, I’ve come to realize just how important small businesses are in creating a healthy society. Supporting small businesses strengthens local economies, creates jobs, and fosters a sense of community and connection. As our economy is increasingly dominated by large corporations (a la Amazon and Target) that don’t tend to prioritize individuals or the environment, developing a sense of community and shared resourcefulness feels more important than ever.
PARTING WORDS;
Be intentional, but also aspirational, in how you shop. Hold yourself accountable. Consider how each purchase reflects the values you wish large corporations and society as a whole would consider non-negotiable. Think about the world you want your kids to grow up in. And we’ll be here, always, silently cheering you on.
REFERENCES
1. Earth.org. The 10 Essential Fast Fashion Statistics. 2022. https://earth.org/fast-fashion-statistics/
2. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Textiles: Material-Specific Data. November 8, 2024. https://www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and-recycling/textiles-material-specific-data
3. https://www.fashionrevolution.org/usa-blog/how-much-garment-workers-really-make/
4. International Labor Organization (ILO) Brief. Advancing Decent Work in Supply chains. March 2025. https://www.ilo.org/publications/decent-work-challenges-and-opportunities-textiles-and-clothing-sector
5. International Labor Association, Exposure to hazardous chemicals at work and resulting health impacts: A global review. 2021. https://www.ilo.org/sites/default/files/wcmsp5/groups/public/@ed_dialogue/@lab_admin/documents/publication/wcms_791876.pdf
6. National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) Special Publication 1500-207, Facilitating a Circular Economy for Textiles Workshop Report. May 2022 https://nvlpubs.nist.gov/nistpubs/SpecialPublications/NIST.SP.1500-207.pdf
7. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Textiles: Material-Specific Data. November 8, 2024. https://www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and-recycling/textiles-material-specific-data
